Sometimes I get in a training rut and hit up the same spot over and over again. I return, week after week, and sometimes day after day, to the same trailhead and embark on a certain loop (Spruce Gap to Old Laurel Trail at Rothrock) that I know is challenging, beautiful, and convenient. This is not necessarily a bad thing—at least I am getting out to nature and exercising—but it keeps me from getting out to all the other trails I love in this area, which is an outdoor adventure haven.
It was with these thoughts in mind that I remembered the Indian Steps, and I realized that it must have been at least 10 years since I last set foot on this interesting and historical trail. Time to step back up. So I grabbed my map, planned a four-mile loop and headed out the door with my dog, Peggy, to the Indian Steps Trail.
To get to the trailhead from State College, head down PA Route 26 towards Pine Grove Mills and then follow 26 as it makes its way up over the mountain. Then, on the way down, just after the road veers left, turn right on Harry’s Valley Road. Follow this dirt road about 1.8 miles to the Indian Steps trailhead marker.
There are some questions surrounding these steps and who actually built this trail.
One legend has it that these steps were made by Native Americans (hence the name), and this tale was made famous by American folklorist, historian, diplomat, writer, publisher, and conservationist Henry W. Shoemaker.
In his book The Indian Steps: And other Pennsylvania Mountain Stories (there is free online access from Penn State University Press), which was published in 1912, Shoemaker speaks of the Indian Steps. The titular story is about the interesting landmark on Tussey Moutnain, not far from Pennsylvania Furnace.
“The Steps were made, so tradition states, to enable Indian warriors from the southern part of the state to quickly cross the mountain when they invaded their northern rivals,” writes Shoemaker. He adds that a bloody battle occurred at the site around the year 1600, and his long story details the events that led up to it.
But not everybody agrees that Native Americans built the steps, with another popular opinion being that Civilian Conservation Corps workers built the steps in the 1930s. My guess, and it is only a guess, is that the trails were in place long before the CCC, since Shoemaker wrote about them a good twenty years prior to the formation of the Depression era program. I also am guessing that CCC teams in the area may have done repair and restoration work. It is also possible that Shoemaker was speaking on another feature altogether.
It would be interesting to get a clearer understanding of this cool feature, but nonetheless, the stairs are worth a visit, especially if you take this four-mile loop that includes part of the Mid State Trail.
One thing is for sure—the trail starts off very steep, heading straight up the steps to the top of Tussey Ridge. The trail climbs about 600 feet in less than a half mile (whew, what a great workout; don’t worry, it gets easier later). The stairs are mostly made of logs at first before they are formed in the rocky outcrops farther up the ridge. This time of year, downed leaves can make navigating the steps difficult, and ice and snow could make the climb even more treacherous.
But the climb is worth it, especially without the foliage on the trees because if you turn around you can see out through the bare branches to the valley below. Each step brings you closer to the top of the ridge.
Peggy had no difficulty making her way up the rocky steps, but a small dog might struggle a little (although I bet they could still manage better than me at times). I was happy to take breaks to get photos.
The top of the climb is decorated with a huge pile of rocks, and there is a sign that appears to indicate that it was a furnace of some sort, but I cannot be certain. Either way, it is an interesting landmark.
From here Peggy and I followed the Mid State Trail southwest, and it was mostly easy going on the top of the ridge. After about a mile of ridge walking, the Indian Steps Trail breaks off down the other side of the mountain toward Pine Grove Mills. I have never gone up or down that side, but the trailhead can be accessed from Kepler Road.
We continued on the Mid State, leisurely hiking along, for about another quarter mile, when we came to a rocky outcrop with a great view of Harry’s Valley and beyond. In the summer, this spot might be a haven for rattlesnakes, but we had no worries on this cold day.
After another quarter mile, we came to a clearing that was once home to an old fire tower, and you could see its remnants. There was another wonderful view and it was neat to see the formation of the ridges on the other side of the valley. This would be a great place to camp on a backpacking trip.
From here, we continued on the Mid State for a short distance and turned left of PA Furnace Road. Down the road a few hundred feet is another great view of the valley. After admiring the view, Peggy and I continued down the road about a quarter of a mile, where the road switched back in the other direction, but we continued straight on Pump Station Trail. This wide trail is used by snowmobiles in the winter, and its gentle grade allowed Peggy and I to make up some time. It was a fun run down. Eventually we landed back on Harry’s Valley Road, and we hung a right, following the road the last half mile back to our car.
What a fun hike. It could be easily hiked in reverse, but I feel like going down the Indian Steps would be more difficult than going up, especially with leaves or ice on the trail. But either way, the steps are a fun, challenging experience, and the views from the ridge make it all worth it. Yes, indeed, no matter who built them, the Indian Steps are worth the effort. T&G
Vincent Corso loves exploring the outdoors in central Pennsylvania and beyond.
